Archive for the ‘Graphics’ Category

Pixel Perfect Web Design

Thursday, July 29th, 2010 by John Furrow

Have you ever noticed that Photoshop will anti-alias the edge of a rectangle? This is because the edge of the rectangle happens to fall in the middle of a pixel. If you follow these few simple rules when designing websites in Photoshop, you can ensure that the edges of your rectangles will fall exactly on the edge of a pixel, making the shape super crisp and sharp.

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Utilizing Envelope Distort for Typographical Effects

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010 by John Furrow

I’d like to share a method for creating unique typographical effects on the outside of the letters using Adobe Illustrator. See what I mean in the example below. Then read on and find out how to do it yourself!

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Virtuemart Pathway – Why is it not working?

Thursday, October 9th, 2008 by Steven Pignataro

After installing Virtuemart, a highly integrated shopping cart for Joomla!, I realized that there was a small issue. The issue dealt with the way Virtuemart and Joomla! displayed the pathway of the cart. The product displayed a double pathway, and most of the links were not working. When you were browsing a category you couldn’t go back to the main store because the link was not linkable. This was very annoying to me. After hours of trying to figure out what was happening and going through code pieces, I finally put together bunch of various hacks. This is what ended up working for me. I successfully tested it on all versions of Joomla!, but only with Virtuemart 1.0.5.

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What resolution do I use?

Friday, July 7th, 2006 by Jonathan Shroyer

After being in the graphic design business for over 12 years I have a tendency to take things for granted and forget the struggles of my past. One question that comes up a lot is what resolution to use for different media types. Here is a quick run-down of what I currently know:

  • Web: 72dpi (RGB)
    • Web: If you develop for 640√ó480 then make your page 600√ó300.
    • Web: If you develop for 800√ó600 then make your page 760√ó420.
    • Web: If you develop for 832√ó624 then make your page 795√ó470.
    • Web: If you develop for 1024√ó768 then make your page 955√ó600.
  • Print: varies
    • Typical Poster: 150dpi (Typically RGB: 85/100 lpi)
    • Newspaper: 150dpi to 200dpi (Greyscale or CMYK: 85/100 lpi)
    • Press: 225dpi to 300dpi (CMYK: 133/150 lpi) is the ‘norm‚’ but double check with your printer before starting the job.
    • Home Printers: (Typically Greyscale or RGB) This can be a little more difficult to figure out, but once you know the math it’s easy. Just divide the total number of inks your printer produces by the dpi stated on the printer. Example: An Epson printer may boast that it can produce a 1440 dpi image, but you have to divide that by the amount of inks it uses, which is probably 6. That leaves you with 240. This is the dpi you should use on your image for maximum quality. Note: You may get a better image with a higher dpi with some printers.

    If you are scanning for a particular job and don’t know how to correctly scan the images, use this page as a reference: http://www.scantips.com/basics03.html. It does a better job explaining than I can. If it is for the web, just use 72dpi, unless there is a possibility it will be used for print later as well.

    Make your photos SNAP!

    Saturday, June 17th, 2006 by Jonathan Shroyer

    One of the most useful tricks I have learned is how to make your photos snap in Photoshop. I learned this in the era of the first digital cameras (the ones where your pictures looked flat no matter how great your camera was). Since most people aren’t professional photographers, their photos lack the contrast and saturation needed to make it look great. This quick trick will help fix this problem in most cases.

    Note: This works better on RGB images, but will work in CMYK.

    1. Go to Layer > New Adjustment Layer > Curves
    2. In the New Layer pop-up select Mode: Soft Light. Press OK.
    3. On the curve select the left point (lower left). Make the values Input:0 and Output:62
    4. Now select the right point (upper right). Make the values Input:255 and Output:193
    5. That may be ok, but if it still isn’t quite what you want, you can add a point to the middle and move it up or down. This will lighten or darken your photo in a much more realistic way.

    Best of luck!

    Making images non-destructible for future changes

    Saturday, June 17th, 2006 by Jonathan Shroyer

    When you are in a professional production environment you learn how to move fast so you can deal with clients who change their minds every other minute. One of the skills that saved my butt over and over was learning how to make my Photoshop documents non-destructible. What I mean is, at any point in time I can go back to the original and re-edit if needed. Here’s how to be sure you will virtually always be able to trace your steps back and make changes.

    IMPORTANT: NEVER WORK DIRECTLY ON THE ORIGINAL LAYER!

    Evoke the magic of the healing brush and clone brush.

    Each new version of Photoshop has made it easier and easier to work in a non-destructible environment. With the release of Photoshop CS it became possible to use the healing brush on a new layer instead of on the original photo. Why is that important? If you need to change anything that you’ve ‘healed,’ all you have to do is erase the portion on the healing layer that you changed and simply start over. Your original document is still completely intact. How do you do this?

  • Make a new layer.
  • Select healing brush [j] or clone brush [s]
  • Select your brush, keep it on Normal mode. The source should be sampled. Select Aligned. Here is the secret part: select Use All Layers. When you choose Use All Layers it is essentially copying from a snapshot of the screen. What you see on the screen is what gets copied.
  • Make sure you have your new layer selected. Choose the area of the source area to be copied from [option] then start cloning and healing.
  • Non-destructible light and color shifts

    One habit you should get into as soon as possible is to start using Adjustment Layers. This is one of the most powerful functions built into Photoshop. On a typical photo project I may have half a dozen Adjustment Layers stacked over each other for one reason or another. Adjustment Layers give you the ability to ‘float’ light over your photo and manipulate it with pinpoint precision. This is great for photos that have someone with too much light on their face on a background that is just right. You can simply add an adjustment layer of levels or curves over the photo, adjust the face to match the background lighting, then mask off everything but the face (I will add an article on masking soon), and voila! You have a perfect photo. If you want to change the light on the face, just double click the adjustment layer and you have full control of the light again. If you decide not to use it, you can simply turn off the layer or delete it and you are back to your original. Try this with hue/saturation to change the color of parts of your photos easily. Here are the steps:

  • Go to Layer > Adjustment Layer > Select desired effect
  • Name the layer if you want (it’s always good to name layers so you can keep track of them easily) and select blending mode. Most use Normal, but some great special effects can be done using other blending modes in Adjustment Layers. Press OK.
  • Adjust it so the area to be changed looks the way you want it to look.
  • Click OK.
  • If you are looking for a global effect, you’re done. Just double click on the adjustment layer in your layers box if you wish to change it again. If you want to only affect certain parts of your photo with this then continue on.
  • Your adjustment layer should be selected. Select the mask on the adjustment layer (the box on the right on that layer) This is where we will mask off everything except the desired area.
  • If you only have a small area you don’t want to change with the adjustment layer, simply select the brush you want to use it to mask off the area. Select pure black for the brush color and paint on the mask area you want to restore to the original. If you choose a shade of gray it will only mask off at the opacity that the shade the gray is to black (ex. 50% gray will equal 50% opacity). If you want to mask over what you did then just select white for your brush color and it will un-mask the area.
  • If you want a small area to be affected by the adjustment layer, fill in the entire mask with white and select a black brush to unmask the area you want to change with the adjustment layer.
  • You can copy the adjustment layer to double the effect for a more dramatic look. Try changing the blending mode to see what other effects you can come up with.